Anycubic z offset reddit. The bed is semi- rigid.

Anycubic z offset reddit 25 to keep the lawyers from squishing. always comes back to "-18. Got great results. She would occasionally have to redo the z-offset, but now no matter what we do, the tip grinds against the bed. 8mm to -2. I've ruined my Bed-Plate and need a new one now. I don;t see anyway to fix it, and changing the z-offset hasn't done anything Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. So basically my problem was that whatever I did, the z-offset didn't seem to be taken into account, at least not on a reliable and repeatable basis. Posted by u/dlhery5 - 1 vote and 2 comments Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Z Hop when Retracted, and when I checked it, it gave me 2 more settings. As for the z-offset you have to continously adjust +0. 15mm, then the next print it stayed at that. Then overwrite the z offset entry. With this model you can perfectly adjust z-offset - if the nozzle is too high threads of the brim will be separate, if it's too low - the square will fuse to the brim so that they can't be separated easily. 2mm for the first layer), the nozzle really is at zero height (or at 0. I don't think thats the solution it just prints like absolute garbage I just lowered z offset until it looked like the lines would finally be squished into one another instead of being separate lanes and it did make it to the actual print phase but then the layers it did for the print were absolutely horrible there's proper gaps in them and it sounds like the print head is scratching over the This is your main issue here and the reason why the print doesn't stick to the build plate. Also if your level and z-offset is high, its just dropping plastic onto the plate, where if the level is set correctly its actually pushing plastic into the plate. It probes when you tell the machine to do so. If you want the "Z" value offset for some reason in a print, "Z Offset" is how you would do it. At this point I’m wondering if it’s just either ignoring the offset or the sensor If you have a BL touch or any type of probe level your bed and set the z offset. As a hopeful solution I made a new metal piece for triggering the z-endstop later and therefore getting closer to the bed (as my z-offset used to be around -5. Another perfect print done. This system began with the release of the beta Edge of the Empire rulebook in 2012, and it's since blossomed into full fantasticness with three core rulebooks, four beginner's boxes, and over a dozen adventures and sourcebooks. [stepper_z] step_pin = PC7 dir_pin = !PC6 enable_pin = !PC3 microsteps = 16 rotation_distance = 8 endstop_pin = probe: z_virtual_endstop position_min = -15 position_max = 250 homing_speed = 10 position_endstop = 3. xx (and wouldn’t go back down) and the print head rose a bit and kept going. It set the offset to -3. To be honest though, you shouldn't need to touch your offset unless you've done stuff to your printer. 25mm after doing it's auto-z-offset thing, In the few seconds after starting a new print while waiting for the printer to warm up, I tweaked it to -1. It’s keeping the crazy Z-offset value through a power cycle. Yesterday I went one for eight with so many different issues that I couldn't keep straight. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. com Members Online Kobra 2 neo will not auto level or position calibration. The leveling works fine except I have to manually set the z offset to +. Once you run the auto level, move the head to the center, move the bed to the center, lower your Z axis to 0, THEN do the z offset and paper routine. So z-offset is the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the bed/PEI plate, which comes into account when printing the first layer ('perfect' first layer is crucial for e. 02 higher, remove the paper. Yeah I mainly use Elmer’s washable glue sticks and hot water on a Micro Fiber cloth … if I’m finding sticky issues . /r/MCAT is a place for MCAT practice, questions, discussion, advice, social networking, news, study tips and more. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Z offset upvotes · comments. However, I let it continue, and after the first layer, everything was okay. 2mm horizontal space between the square and brim. So you just send M851 Z x. The Kobra wont let me move it lower than zero in the settings so my nozzle is always about 15mm to high. Change the offset while it's printing until the lines start to smoosh into eachother. I mean Esteps also Hi everyone, I didn't find anything for my problem, but also I'm fairly new in 3D printers. I recently bought and set up a Kobra 2 Max printer. The #1 social media platform for MCAT advice. I did physical bed leveling (using readings from OctoPrint with Bed Level Visualizer but you could just use the raw ABL numbers) and metal shims to get the bed closer to level. I accidentally pressed in the half-way point of the minus button and now I can't change my z-offset back to 0. I leveled the bed (again) before printing. I saw this video on adjusting z offset for an Ender 3 but it uses motion control from the LCD menu which isn't on the Mega Zero 2. For adjusting the Z offset up (away from the bed) use any plus figure. Kobra 2 max, im having issues leveling bed and starting prints. When I start the print, the first layer don't fit so I stop only to find the z offset now is round -0. Then start your print again. Of course I set the z-offset, even many times with different methods like using the control unit, using g-code directly, using g-code in the start section and all that. 5” which should also work with pointerface but again you will have to change that manually after doing an auto bed level when changing nozzles and such. 5 it would be “M851 Z-1. On top of the my z offset has moved between -0. Ideally, a piece of paper should just barely fit in-between. I let the bottom layer finish then I have downloaded the latest . Another print. I power cycle. doing maintenance. The bed is semi- rigid. It seems that even though I can only set the Z-offset during a print, it remembers the setting for the next print. Check if it was taken with M503. Afterwards in a slicer add a one-layer square with a brim aroud and 0. 1. Any help here please?? I've tried unplugging the machine but it does nothing and I can't seem to find any solutions via the google. 0 Auto-leveling, Smart Z-Offset' which must be easy to break in some way; it does seem that however impressive this printer is, it wasn't very well tested first and pushed out of the door. 150 or -0. Edit: so far I have tried the paper test to attempt to fix it. I generally adjust z offset by . 44. 25ish at the right height. the nozzle stuck to my print, so ever since then the z offset has not been right. 15 (I have different nozzle so don't copy ;) IMPORTANT!: When you home z it will just retract the nozzle the first time you ask to where z !WAS! (before new z offset) you need to use home z twice. 02 per change. I've been able to successfully calibrate my Z offset using Probe_Calibrate, have generated a bed mesh, etc, however when I go to start a print, my Z offset is being completely ignored. I'd take off the bed plate when cold. If you go to Move Axis, the Z axis should be at 0. Hitting infill or model can mean that your z axis movement is smaller than requested - i. Do you think these things can be fixed with an OTA update and is Anycubic known to update their printers? As the other person wrote, it is likely your z offset is too high. anycubic. For adjusting it down (squishing into bed) use a minus offset. Z Hop Height, default is 0. 5, and I had to keep adjusting it while it was digging away until it hit -1. 3. the screws come loose and ya your bed is "warped" you need to find the kobras med mount screws cut out the magnet to access these screws and play tighten loosen till you get a perfect mesh. 500 [probe] pin = PB8 x_offset = 23 y_offset = -13. It cannot move. You can really mess up your build plate and nozzle. move hot end close to bed level manually. Auto leveling ensures that nozzle/bed fit, whatever you choose it to be, is consistent across the entire bed. After it is centered, make sure the Z offset is 0. It was working fine until Wednesday after it finished printing the model had fell down on the build plate and when the printer started doing the homing and bed leveling the part got jammed between the build plate and the gantry causing the printer to hit it as it was doing the bed leveling Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I had the same problem after wiggling the offset measurement switch wires it auto leveled again and corrected z offset, it's the unit that's at the back of the build plate the nozzle go's to wipe and calibrate when you auto level. The first night I went three for three with no failures. But if you really really want to that's how I do it. Make sure it's at the same height as the surface of the PEI plate - if it's too low, then then nozzle will be too low as well. Everytime you execute an ABL, you need to set/dial in the z-offset again. It's that silver round button. For that you can download Printer face and you get there, send a M503 command to reveal config. Move the z offset on screen either up or down while printing untill you see a nice first layer. Before adjusting the Z-offset, it is important to ensure proper bed leveling. so when setting the z offset the z axis has to be at 0. Despite my attempts, I can't seem to get the ABL system to level the bed adequately. Had it perfectly leveled for the benchy. Has anyone else had the same issue? home printer. 460, due to that I'm having trouble calibrating the z offset parameter. So you still have to check and adjust the z-offset on the fly while printing the first layer to get the perfect distance. g. This is important. -0. If the filament lines look like guitar strings and not sticking together, Z-Offset is too high. You can then set the Z-offset value through the slicer software or the printer's LCD display. Ok I recalibrate Z offset. The Z offset is the distance between your ABL probe's trigger point, and the actual nozzle height at that trigger point. 00 position for the Z (Home) is way to high. Check out this handy poster to see how to determine a perfect first layer (= z-offset). Then sliced my own file with AnycubicSlicer, and it was rubbing on the build plate. Less likely is a dirty bed plate. I don't know if I have to zero the z axis first before adjusting the offset, or if the offset calibration is from the home position of the z axis. All it cares about is that when it moves Z to 0 (or moves Z to 0. Hey everyone my Z-Offset plus/addition button is not working. 4. It just occurred to me that when you print anything from Orca or the Anycubic slicer it always puts that one strand of material along the front of the print bed. Z offset affects the distance between the nozzle and bed. I keep track of which z offset I used for each square and afterwards I use a magnifying glass to pick the one that looks the best. I then turned off soft end stops. The pla I'm using isnt sticking very well and If the first layer isnt decent it wont hold. How do you properly set Z-offset? Can y’all recommend a YouTube video/channel that might have some advice? Despite correctly setting the Z-offset as instructed, my printer fails to save these settings. r/anycubic. Dry it with a paper towel. this is of course with the layer hight and extruder diameter being the same (im Hey, Have a K2M as well and plenty of issues! I also get the waves, it's worst for me when the nozzle is way to high and gets better as you get close to the correct z offset (obviously I guess) but It isn't that simple as it doesn't go away entirely, as in I'm hitting the bed before the waves are gone z offset wise. So I managed to adjust the endstop being triggered at pretty much the perfect 'z-offset' (I made a post about that here on reddit as well). While it was printing, I tried to increase the z-offset but the number increased to like 1. So my first print it set itself to -1. Start a print, the nozzle digs itself into the bed while drawing the purge line. EDIT: to make it clear - you adjust the z-offset, not the z-axis itself while printing. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. So I don’t know if you ended up installing this yet but the Z reset issue seems to have been fixed, however this prebuilt bin file provided was compiled with the different homing technique that involves the print head moving to the center of the buildplate and using the strain gauge to determine the home position. com For feedback or partnership, please contact : springzhou@anycubic. . As you're just starting out, there are some things you need to keep an eye on, especially with the Neo. While these things should work for any printer in the Kobra line (and most printers in general) I specifically have the Go meaning I can only test it… But I had some issues with my Z Offset (or more likely bed leveling). adjusting the z-offset, and/or re-leveling. e. Like WTF. If filament looks thin, see through, squished out, then Z-Offset is too low. Nozzle scraping print, while printing after ~10ish layers. But then, it happened again. (CODE M211 S0) 5. I can't even get through the first layer of the Build-plate. It's almost as if the offset isn't getting saved to the EEPROM. Results are still end up with the nozzle scraping against the build plate even with the z offset at 8. Do the ABL first, then dial in your z-offset. Is it the sensor? Working with a Kobra Neo 2 and having trouble with prints failing, base lifting etc. I can’t recalibrate Z. Second, the part with the orange tip at the printhead is the inductive probe, which detects the PEI plate while probing for a bedmesh as well as it acts as a virtual endstop. I can manually turn the rod in the back to manually lower the z axis but of course printing or leveling always sends it back to the too high home position. 32. So I have to adjust the offset to 0. Today, when I turned it on, I again, did the auto levelling ok. 39 and -1. You have to do the auto level and then set the z-offset (make sure your Z is set to 0 and in the center of the plate before you set it. 1mm. (Not z-offset/leveling) Looking through the anycubic reddit it seems quite a few people have z-offset issues with this printer, even though it has, as AnyCubic call it, 'LeviQ 2. is there something like that for anycubic? Just start a print with a skirt or a brim or whatever you like doing. Realized that setting the z-offset within the slicer program was essentially an additional z-offset on top of the z-offset that the printer had. 1: Re-position the Z switch higher or lower depending if the nozzle is too close or not until it comes and stops at the correct height & this way there is no need to add a software Z offset. I had just been struggling with my z-axis offset and just got it so something that seemed reasonable on my machine. Jun 6, 2023 · If you are using the wrong Z-offset, it can ruin your 3D prints. I have an Ender 3 and adjusting Z-offset on the fly is amazing. anycubic failed to use locktight and they loosen pretty quickly Either way, first of all, every time you do sth at your hotend, you have to calibrate and set the z-offset new. Just start a print with a skirt or a brim or whatever you like doing. good and reliable contact of the print and keeping it stuck on the plate). So here's the process: Z Offset is initially set to any value at all (1. I am new to 3D Printing and just got my Kobra 2 Neo few I have no idea what to do about my z offset sensor. It is mounted to the Y axis in a rigid way. A change of slicer, or a failed plugin update, or anything along those lines shouldn't leave the potential of causing a hotend collision. Start reading around here for calibrating it. This time the Z-offset jumps to -7. Another crazy z-offset without me changing anything. 45 which is as low as I can go on the right side without scrubbing. 4 Your slicer has no bearing on z offset in this case. Not from screen but if you link your printer to a PC you can overwrite settings and change offset by 0. So observe the initial layer while it's being printed and adjust the z-offset on the fly using the control unit. Then sliced up some more STL objects and head started crushing into the bed. Now try printing the owl. I then uploaded Marlin 1. 02 higher again. You said you used the paper method to determine your z-offset - consider this as an approach to get to the z-offset, but it's actually not necessarily the perfect I followed official documentation, i calibrated bed and temps and z offset (with paper test result -0. And: the block you posted the link to with that knob on top: the knob itself is fine to add, as that allows you to manually turn the lead screw way more comfortable if you need to do so when e. So I have an anycubic kobra and I've been trying to get the z-offset nice and good but at the same time one side seems thinner than the other and one side won't stick wile the other will and I am also getting blobs in the print that I have to cut out can someone please tell me how to get rid of these issues I e also even messed with the extrusion force know and nothing I have a question about the z offset calibration, my printer Z axis home position is 0. I wouldn't mess with that setting in super slicer. Then take wrench that came with machine (2mm thick) and place it under abl. (you'll see it go further up and back down to the optical sensors) so move the nozzle to the centre of the bed (via Auto levelling went ok. The home position is not the same as the Z Offset AND the Z Offset DOES NOT SET a new home position. 3mm after leveling? Does this seam normal? Would adding a second Z drive help this? Thank you for your time Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. Then adjust the z offset with copier paper as needed because the inductive auto level sensor just only gets you close you have to add more Z offset because it too squished on mine at least. I say temporarily because I generally have to recalibrate flow every time I Guy on YouTube with 4k subscribers is working on a cheap, universal, mostly 3d-printable pellet extruder, and appears to have solved most of the problems associated with them (including the astronomical cost). Step 3 and 4 are a problem. 67, but there is a z missing in front of it. AC Kobra. I was able to level and set the Z-offset for my wife and it worked ok most of the time. set the z offset to -1. 00" after a shut-down. I typically adjust it during the print, moving 0. 84. M500 P31 ; save to override May 27, 2024 · use the following search parameters to narrow your results: subreddit:subreddit find submissions in "subreddit" author:username find submissions by "username" site:example. But when I went to do the Z-Offset (Paper method again), it was a whopping -6. Yes, it has the 'automatic z-offset' function, but that one doesn't work 100% perfect as well, especially if the sensor/switch is at the wrong height or if some filament is stuck at the nozzle's tip when pushing that switch. Weird Z offset issue: I've had a couple issues where I'd level the bed, set the Z-offset to some crazy number that I knew wasn't correct but had to to get it to where it needed to go, start the print, have the nozle scrape on the bed, stop the print, and then test the Z-offset again only to find that it was set way more than it should have. I have to adjust my z offset for every print and was wondering if anyone else has had the same issue? The auto bed leveling works great and I'm getting great first layers, but every time I start a new print I have to adjust the z offset again. This will be your nozzle The Z offset probe is often really out on these printers, you should get a bed level test from thingiverse, and slice it, and print it (don’t use the prints Anycubic gives on the included SD, they’re poorly sliced and do not give accurate level information) and use that to ensure your printer is giving the right amount of Squish to the [stepper_z] position_min=0 Before making the following change the print would not go lower than approx . The Photon Mono 4k guide/manual and other people on the internet do not make this clear. 5 z_offset = 1. Re-leveled, Z-offset = 1. The pei sheet is double sided, hopefully you can flip it over and still use it. Hello, I am new to this community, but I need help. 34 ( = 1 mm higher than what the callibration gave), I still don't print closer to the bed. I set the Z-Offset (paper method) to around 2mm and eventually managed to print the 2 supplied models on the SD card (Height Gauge and Owl). grab a piece of paper, go back to the levelling menu, z-offset do the paper levelling, lower the z-offset GRADUALLY and move the paper under the nozzle grabs it to a point where the paper is VERY HARD to move SET the z-offset 0. xx. Z=0, or Z Offset, is not the same thing as Home. The MCAT (Medical College Admission Test) is offered by the AAMC and is a required exam for admission to medical schools in the USA and Canada. G29 W I1 J0 Z… I are the rows J the columns. 63 (auto-set), definitely too high at some spots Z-offset = 1. 02mm between each square and I rub the square with my finger after it prints to see how it feels. In between, I did a completely different print, and there was no scraping at all, and the print looked great. com There are plenty of videos and tutorials on using paper to set your z-offset but using functional ABL (which Anycubic may not have) should limit the need. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now A community for the Anycubic Vyper you can adjust the z 0 with the z-offset. Edit: Paper leveliing first and then follow the instructions of auto leveling from the manual by doing paper test first you are trying to reduce as much uneven levelling as possibleif the bed deformation is too high, auto leveling will no be able to compensate for it (i think that's the situation in video) do paper test then auto level and then set z offset on the screen So I had to replace the nozzle recently, and after I put it all back together, the Z-axis is off by several millimeters, so much its pushing the bed down. 35 for example), I start the print and you can see the filament falling so it's way too high. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. The left side of my Anycubic Kobra Go is significantly higher than the right. Still the same. 6mm). Anycubic photon mono 2 z offset Question So my dad accidentally spammed the move up by 10mm button and now when we home the printer in makes this noise like it's pushing against the screen, What I do is adjust (tune) the z-offset after each square is printed. In pronterface type M503, within the return are the offset points G29 W I0 J0 Z…. It’s a fairly new machine and I did several prints before this started happening every time. To be checked but I think this is M851. I bought a Kobra 2 and set it up three days ago. Everything works as it should, it homes x and y axis and wipes nozzle proor to touching level sensor. Set z offset to 3. 1, paper still feels great. resliced and now it's starting the print 5mm above the bed. 5mm above the bed. Leave it blank or at 0 and do the offset on the printer. 1 or 0. The z-offset comes into play when you start a print (and only then) - then it should move from that home position to the start position of the print, go down to the z-offset you set and then it should start the print. I was amazed at the quality of both. 45. Both of which should fix my problem completely. 250 it is still the same. Despite correctly setting the Z-offset as instructed, my printer fails to save these settings. bed level issue or z offset Hello everyone, i have a Kobra Neo and two days ago I finally got the filament and I'm starting with the calibrations to the machine and I literally have been 2 days of hell with the printer bed. If you see the Z offset increasing or decreasing by a lot, do the re level, this allows the Z offset to reset to 0. Auto levelling went ok. Use a regular piece of a4 paper) Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I dunno what I would do with out this community help. About 3 or 4 months ago we went through a number of part swaps when Anycubic didn't listen and all we needed was a new hotend. 63 (auto-set) On a normal printer I would simply adjust the corners, but on this piece of… printer you can't do it. I have a ender 3 pro with a BLTouch, after the calibration the first layer is always very good but then I find I have to keep adjusting the babystep throughout the print because it looks as though the nozzle is dragging through the print and causing a round surface, the last print I ended up with a baby step offset of 0. Then I move the z-offset between -1. I set the proximity sensor so that I have 0 offset with piece of paper method. 5 z offset 80 bed heat - if you take an IR thermometer, there is about a 10-20 degree discrepancy probably caused by bad insulation under the bed, set it to 80, you get an actual temp between 63 and 70 depending on the room Most importantly, 4 layers of hairspray on the pei, and one additional coat every time you print. Put a sheet of paper on the bed, then keep lowering the Z offset with the option inside the Leveling menu until the paper sheet can't be moved freely without resistance. 2, but it still hasn't changed. Print some sort of leveling test to see how it goes, if you see the filament lifting or looking a little weird, you can adjust the offset while it's running just be careful. Also do a new bedmesh. Thx Again. I've read that this printer has lots of problems with the gantry sagging on the right side (opposite to the screw) so I decided to test that I wasn't going to slam the nozzle into the bed by slowly increasing the X position and seeing what happened to the paper Anycubic Vyper Z-Offset issue Printed two large prints on my Vyper just fine with standard settings I always used. I got pretty decent on deciding if I need to go up or down, but something is wrong. 6 to get it okay again. Ok I recalibrate Z offset, again. (Not z-offset/leveling) Sorry if this has been asked, is there an easier way to adjust z-offest than Pronterface? Mega-X, running knutwurst v1. 5mm. That's caused by the (position of the) z-limit stop and doesn't have anything to do with the z-offset actually. After trying to get it set to Home, and continuously setting the Z Offset after every auto-level, it just slowly gets closer and closer to the Hot-Bed as the print starts. Autolevel it. I thought this was the point of mesh leveling? To tell the printer where the high and low spots are? Just got a Kobra neo set up and the 0. You can also do it in Octoprint wit the M851 command where if you wanted to set a z-offset of -1. The z offset setting is drastically different than the homed z offset. Z-offset as in a slicer configuration? I think it's better to use spacers for this specific purpose. Have tried auto leveling, tightening the Z axis arm, and raising the Z offset to the point where the right side has trouble adhering but it still scrapes on the left. Give it a quick dish soap and water wash, so it removes any oils. This is a community for friendly discussion about Fantasy Flight Games' (now Edge's) Star Wars RPG. For example z-offset insert paper and lower Z Offset until paper starts to grab Raise offset a smidge. Posted by u/dlhery5 - 2 votes and 3 comments Hey all! Just wondering if there is a z offset option with the mega x ? I use it often with creality machine and am not familiar with Anycubic menus In the video he says something about how to hone in the z offset but after that I have no idea what he is talking about. But if I do the same for a number like 4. My factory hotend liked 0z offset while my current replacement like a . I have my z offset to minus -14. Hello, I'm using a Kobra Max and having issues with Z offset after auto leveling the bed. 67 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height, was 16. Z offset is a distance between the tip of a nozzle and a height when z probe triggers. There are no leveling knobs and springs. 5-1mm, I'd check the z-offset switch at the back. I just read the Anycubic Kobra 3 Review from Toms Hardware, and although it is very positive, it gets a few comments about the purge and the nozzle height adjustment. I like to use this file, as the different 'rows' show you how it's looking, and you can adjust it on the fly. After making the following change everything is now working perfectly" Step #1 - The positive integer sets a LOWER threshold for the Z-Axis Offset [bltouch] z_offset: 2 I was hoping to adjust the z offset before printing with the paper trick, but seems you can only adjust the offset while it’s printing. subract the value from 16. Mate, no. So I don't why but on my Anycubic Vyper, the Z offset is always so high when starting a print and resets at the start of each print. WTF, this time I can’t change it. 0mm, mive axis x111, y111, z0. When the print is started, the extruder nozzle sits about 10mm too high. Submit a customer support ticket: https://support. 01 increment. I will try that at 6mm, and I'm going to set the speed back to its default 10mm/s. 3. When adjusting/finetuning the z-offset on the fly while printing the initial layer afterwards, save that to 'Endstop' instead to 'Probe' (dunno about OctoKlipper, but in Mainsail you can choose between those two when clicking on 'Accept'). 8mm offset. Run a print of anything that has a large first layer and watch the first layer. 6 which has Bi-linear auto leveling but it is worse. Dec 12, 2024 · Well basicly, I was on the early side and it arrived broken, took 3 weeks to get replacement parts, I needed about 4 -6 hours before I got decent settings, and I had to do this again after every update, I had a succes rate of 20% because the z-offset kept changing and to change it I had to: stop the print, go into the slicer, change the value May 23, 2024 · The config from the klippy. This is now kind of old, but just had a similar issue with Kobra 2 Max. PROBE_CALIBRATE to calibrate z offset, save config Home all BED_MESH_CALIBRATE to get a mesh, save config Home all Manually move z to 0. IF it still grabs the paper move z-offset 0. It only tests one half of the bed. The left can get to -1. 090). 0 w/ TMC and BLT. 560 You could Nov 10, 2020 · @CHarding said in Anycubic Kossel Plus adjusting final z-offset: G31 P1000 X0 Y0 16. I typically have to babystep up about 0. Ok, when I redo the bed mesh callibration at z-offset=0 the printer prints too high now. log attached to that thread works perfectly fine for my Anycubic Kobra 2. When I turned the printer back on and attempted a Z home, same thing happened and has happened every time since: It uses the correct off-bed XY positions but after the Z stop sensors engage (the red LEDs turn off at what looks to be the right height of the nozzle off of the bed,) the extruder lowers down even further so that the directional fan Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. So I just recently bought an Anycubic Kobra. If you don't, just level your bed and you don't need to touch the z offset. I wouldn't recommend to probe before each print though (which you could realize by adding that g-code command to your start g-code section in your slicer btw), as you need to set the z-offset again after it did so every time. Slide paper back and forth and lower z offset until it scratches paper but soesnt tear paper. hi guys, have run into trouble with my anycubic kobra 2 max. Yes, this machine does have the 'automatic' z-offset feature, but that doesn't work 100% fine, especially if you didn't calibrate that sensor in the back. But my first layer is looking like crap, not sticking to bed and i tried re calibrate z offset but to be honest when I am changing parameter to either -0. No, the slicer doesn't need to know about the Z offset, and doesn't care. 1 offset. While it is printing, move your z offset down a little at a time. Now the Kobra 2 that I own is quiet, like xy enclosed printer quiet at 250 mm/s setting on the aurora tech prusa slicer configs. you asked it to move 100mm and it only moved 97mm. Anycubic PLA, 200° with 60° bed temp. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Meanwhile, I increased the z-offset by almost 0. Go to z and move close to the papper you use to calibrate. I'm not sure for that guy or what he is using, but for example with my setup, it actually has been different for the Z offset with my BLT, because of how the probe is mounted can be varied depending on the person who made it/mods used. if the kobra bed is like the vyper bed there are 12 screws under the magnet layer. 00 to -1. Print your bed leveling test without the tape, if you have gaps lower the offset for the specific point, if you have no room for extrusion increase the offset. Every time I start a print, the printer reverts to the home position, which is too close to the display, exerting significant pressure on it and causing the stepper motors to skip. I also adapted my z-endstop screws, so that G28 Z is putting the nozzle slightly in the bed => nozzle can go lower if wanted. My friend's i3 mega s uses a -5mm offset, while my modified Tevo tornado uses a -1. 0. 15 . Put paper underneath nozzle and lower z offset until nozzle touches paper. Having a printer with smart Z-offset calibration is the most optimal solution. But yeah I find somethings change a bit with heights when I’m printing PETG at 80oC bed temp vs PLA at 60-65 . 5. Not sure what you mean by "did a probing on 25 on its own bit most of the time it doesnt". 50 and print a line close to the front edge of the print bed (you can print a benchy from the usb stick they sent with the printer and cancel after the line has Been printed) if the extruder runs through the plastic adjust in z+, if the bead is wavy adjust in z-. I got a hand-me-down kobra Go recently. 67 before V6. I did a print before and it was the same. Z Hop only over printed parts and Z hop height. mine is at z-1. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers OK try this, print a mouse pad and adjust your Z while it prints, some anycubic printers don't hold the Z after leveling, also the printer should have came with a stepped plastic tool, that's so you can adjust the sensorlookes like leveling sensor is to high or your heat break isn't fully inserted I realized the z-offset setting in the leveling menu and hit print so I could adjust it live. 51 and somewhere in there is a half decent first layer. I have had a kobra go for a few weeks and find I have to run a level command and do a z offset before most prints or I get failed prints. I did two ABLs as suggested by another post, and then with the bed and nozzle hot I did the paper test as follows: Set X and Y to 120 Set Z to 0 insert paper and lower Z Offset until paper starts to grab Raise offset a smidge. Seems like you have to adjust the position first of all, so that the nozzle is located directly above the center of that silver round z-offset switch at the back (see here for reference picture - that's at the Plus tho, at your Max it's located at the back right corner). If you home the z axis and then set the z offset it doubles the z offset when printing. Adjust the offset for all points. Once leveled with the automatic leveling, no need to keep re leveling. 2: Leave the Z switch where it is & add an offset value in the software to give it an offset from wherever the nozzle rests after hitting the Z switch. 2mm). I have… I have a Kobra and aside from the obvious bed leveling issues they have I set my z offset to -1. hex files from the Anycubic website and uploaded the with the Cura version Anycubic supplied. The Z offset tweaks that fit. The printer seems to have "forgotten" the Z offset when I switch to "Home axis" or starting to print! Consequently, whenever I print something, I have to manually adjust the Z offset for the first few layers to prevent scratching the bed and ensure proper extrusion. My problem is that my Kobra loses z offset after each print. luqedqeb hxeobk iup mzvyvo evexn nxna dbqkzy eyakrwv btvl upg